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Wine Dimensions September 2005

Dear Friends of Monolithos,

This month"s bulletin looks at the importance of grape maturity and harvesting in the quality of wine.

Grape Maturity

The anticipation of each year's harvest and winemaking season in Cyprus arrives with the coming of August when the ripening process becomes apparent as the berry begins to soften. This softening is a result of the berry beginning to accumulate sugar, and is apparent by the beginning of colour change in the berry"s skin.

This is the time when the first maturity samples are taken. This process is done by picking 25 to 30 grape clusters in a random fashion throughout the whole vineyard. These clusters are taken to the laboratory at the winery, crushed, and processed, thus providing important grape composition data. The analysis of this juice involves testing the sugar (brix), acidity, and pH measurements. A linear graph is then prepared with the first sample as the first point. The end point is the date of harvesting.

The analysis conducted on laboratory samples may show perfect maturity, but the overriding factor influencing the harvest date is that of personal taste and preference. By combining fruit composition analysis from the winery with personal taste and opinions, we are able to choose the optimum time of harvest, which results in the highest quality fruit possible. It is this high quality fruit that provides outstanding wines.

The condition of the grapes at the time they are picked is absolutely crucial to wine quality. The potential of a crop of grapes for making the best possible wine can be completely jeopardized by harvesting at the wrong time. The concept of Optimal Ripeness is a very important one.

Grapes that are picked when they are under-ripe tend to have sugar levels that are below those necessary for making wine in the normal alcohol range of 11-%13%. Acid concentrations will generally be too high, affecting the taste of the wine. And given that "correct" flavours usually only show up in grapes at close to full physiological ripeness, under-ripe grapes tend to make wines that taste "green" and weedy. Nature often dictates when to pick the grapes. Disease pressure mounts as the season progresses, and it is frequently necessary to pick solely on that basis.

Grapes that are picked over-ripe can also make sub-standard wines. In warm areas such as Cyprus, growing conditions are such that if grapes are left on the vine, they will rapidly progress past optimal ripeness. Wines made from such grapes will have a dangerously high pH, very low acid, too much sugar, and somewhat unattractive, stewed fruit or "jammy" flavours.

Grape Harvesting

Grapes can be picked either by machine or by hand. There are advantages and disadvantages for each method, which can be summarized as follows:

Mechanical Harvesting:

... is fast - many tons can be delivered in a short time;
... delivers only grapes, not stems;
... is often competitive in price;
... can be hard on grape vines;
... tends to include material other than grapes, such as insects and even bird-nests;
... does not distinguish between the selection of healthy and rotting grapes;
... can be disastrous if the machinery breaks down.

Hand Picking:

... does not significantly bruise the grapes;
... allows for bunch selection;
... rarely outpaces ability of winemaker to crush grapes.

At Monolithos Winery, we always hand-pick the grapes from our own vineyards. Having set the day of harvesting, the team, comprising family and friends of Monolithos, assisted by local labour, gather together at around 6.00 a.m. for an early start. Hand harvesting starts at dawn, in an effort to collect the fruit while it is still cool from the night-time temperatures.

When harvesting, small plastic crates are filled that hold 15-18 kilos of fruit. These containers are then transported to the winery for immediate processing. Quick delivery is a very important component of ensuring that our high quality fruit remains cool. We generally try to finish picking in three to four hours, i.e. before the fruit begins to warm up again. Care during harvest and processing is a vital part of wine quality.

Wine News and Information

California governor Arnold Schwarzenegger has declared September "California wine celebration month". Although this year's harvest is predicted to be generally late compared to last year, winemakers have already begun tasting grapes, measuring the sugars they hold and thinking about when to harvest them. Sparkling wine producers and some white wine makers have already started collecting the grapes. California's wine industry is worth around US$45 billion for the state, and sales of Californian wine represent US$15 billion. It is responsible for about two-thirds of the wine sold in America.

It is well-known that Governor Schwarzenegger enjoys the odd glass of wine - he celebrated his election as governor with a glass of red and a pizza, and has been known to bet cases of Californian wine on football games involving state teams.

The declaration comes as winemakers are tasting grapes, measuring the sugars they hold and thinking about when to harvest them. Unlike the 2004 harvest, which came in early in most places in the state, this year's harvest appears to be a late one.

"Contrary to popular belief, the heat of July/August did not hasten ripening, but in fact retarded it even further," Jeff Meyers, vice president and general manager of a Winery in Plymouth (California) said in a press release. "When it gets that hot, the vines go into survival mode, thus very little ripening occurs during those spells. We are looking at starting at least two to three weeks later than normal. As for quality, we'll let you know as soon as we harvest the fruit."

Since the early days of winemaking, portability of wine by consumers has been an issue much overlooked. So far, the only developments have been the production of half bottles that are primarily sold in restaurants, or the hefty-yet-reliable wine-in-a-box, the weight of which sometimes requires a helpful checkout boy just to get it into a car boot. Alternatives to glass bottles are now being investigated by a growing number of wineries or producers determined to find new ways to position their products in the marketplace.

The latest alternative to wine-in-a-can is the development of a range of sturdy, robust aluminum bottles designed specifically for the wine industry Today, new forms of technology have allowed packaging companies to accurately measure the diameter, provide thick interior liners and insulating properties and strength of each aluminum cylinder before each can or bottle is produced. At the winery, the wine is cold filled - similar to the way beer is packaged - to help ensure freshness and quality.

Currently, products being produced in the U.S. are primarily 187ml or single serving size, while Australian producers package their products in 250ml cans, roughly two glasses of wine. From a practicality angle, these serving sizes are especially convenient for small households or people on the go. Other sizes of aluminum canisters currently being researched include 375ml, 500ml and 750ml.

Monolithos Monthly News

During the third week of August, the white grapes, Malvasia and Xynisteri, facing north-east of Pachna and located at an altitute of 650m and 800m above sea level, were ready for picking. Harvesting and transportation to the winery were completed in ideal conditions, as described above.

The grapes were sorted, de-stemmed, crushed, chilled in our cooler and finally pressed. The must was left in the vats overnight to settle and the following day, preparations for the fermentation process were completed. This year"s white wine is currently undergoing fermentation at controlled temperatures of around 13°C -15°C.

On the commercial field, the winery will participate in the Aeneas Wine Festival at the Ayia Napa holiday resort on Saturday 17 September. All friends of Monolithos are invited to our stand for a tasting experience of our entire range of wines.

If at any time you are passing near the village and wish to visit the winery or purchase any of our products, Martin Wood will be pleased to meet and assist you at his "Fig Tree Villa" in Pachna, so do not hesitate to phone him at 25-816212 or 99-165995.

We thank you for your continued support. Take care, and always remember the words of John Gay (Fables, 1738):

"From wine, what sudden friendship springs!"

Regards from all of us here at Monolithos.