Wine Dimensions September 2006 |
Dear Friends of Monolithos, |
| There has always been a lot of confusion about the role that sulphites play in wine, as well as the health issues surrounding them. To help clarify the issue, we have prepared this short article which we hope you will find useful. |
| Sulphite is a word used to describe forms of sulphurous acid, including sulphur dioxide (SO2). Sulphites have been used since ancient times for many purposes, including the cleansing of wine receptacles by both Romans and Egyptians. Sulphites are preservatives used in some drinks, foods and occasionally medication. They preserve the flavour and colour of food, inhibit bacterial growth, reduce spoilage, stop fresh food from spotting and turning brown, help preserve medication and increase shelf life. As food additives, they have been used since the 17th century. |
| Amounts of SO2 are usually stated/expressed in parts per million (ppm). The presence of sulphites ranging from 6 to 6,000 ppm is found in products such as fruit juices, dried fruits, fruit concentrates, soft drinks, instant tea, syrups, sugar, jams, gelatines, cake toppings, baked goods, commercial foods such as dry potatoes, some gravies and sauces and fruit toppings, pickled onions, jellies, some biscuits and bread or pies, frozen and dehydrated potatoes, processed vegetables, cheeses. Sometimes, restaurant salads and fruit salads will also have sulphites added to preserve their colour. Many packaged foods and food preservatives also contain sulphur as well as many prescription drugs including some eye drop and creams. It is apparent that sulphates are found almost everywhere – certainly in every cup of coffee, tea, or glass of non-pasteurized orange juice we drink. They are also present in most "natural" bottled waters. Dried fruit, such as apples and apricots, are typically packaged with 500 to 1,000 ppm SO2. |
| It is their antioxidant and anti-microbial properties which have gained them an important role in wine making. The sulphites either inhibit or kill bacteria. Sulphites are also a natural and minor by-product of yeast fermentation and thus are produced during the wine fermentation process. Sulphites release SO2, which is the most widely used and controversial additive in winemaking. Sulphur dioxide provides three important properties in winemaking. First, its antiseptic qualities stun if not kill wild yeast and bacteria that are present in or on the fruit. Second, it has anti-oxidative properties, that is, it helps protect wine from the harmful effects of oxygen. And third, it destroys the enzyme that causes enzymatic browning in juice (similar to what happens to apples when they are sliced and exposed to the air). Without SO2, wine would likely be brown or amber in colour, smell oxidized (or have a sherry-like aroma), and probably be ruined by bacterial spoilage. In fact, most “village wines” in Cyprus suffer from such spoilage. |
| The antiseptic qualities of sulphur and sulphur dioxide have been known for more than 2,000 years. But it wasn't until the mid 1800's, when the association of sulphur compounds and their biological effect on bacteria and yeast began to be understood. In recent years, significant research has revealed the importance of SO2 in the winemaking process. Before harvest, sulphur is often sprayed directly on the vines in an effort to deter many insects and diseases. SO2 is typically added to the juice (must) prior to fermentation, then again following the completion of fermentation, and once more before bottling. |
| Once the grapes are crushed, SO2 is used to inhibit the growth of bacteria, mould, and wild yeasts in must, as well as to prevent spoilage or oxidation in the finished wine. After the must has been treated with SO2, the winemaker inoculates it with a yeast culture that's been selected specifically for that wine. Sulphur dioxide can be added to wine as a gas or as Potassium Meta-bisulphite. It reacts with the natural acids in grapes to create sulphur dioxide gas. During these processes, some sulphur dioxide combines with the wine, in which case it's called fixed or bound sulphur dioxide; it has no odour, so it isn't noticeable. |
| Free sulphur dioxide is that which doesn't combine with wine. Excessive amounts of it produce an undesirable trait indicated by a slight “biting” sensation at the back of the throat and in the upper part of the nose. Total sulphur dioxide includes all bound and free sulphur dioxide in wine, the permissible amounts which are regulated by law. Without sulphur dioxide, few wines would be drinkable six months from harvest. SO2 is the penicillin of wine, preventing and curing all sorts of ills. |
| Sulphites can, however, cause severe allergic reactions in certain sulphite-sensitive individuals. As a rule, sulphites are found at higher levels in cask wines than in bottled wines, and are at much higher concentrations in white wines than red wines, where natural tannins help preserve the beverage. Sweet wines contain the most sulphites, followed by dry white wines. Red wines generally contain the least sulphites. |
| There are various technical reasons related to winemaking where very low levels of sulphites might still be present, even when not added to the wine itself. In 1993, the European Union passed regulations permitting higher levels of total sulphur dioxide in dry white wine than in dry red wine and an even higher level in sweet white wines and rose wines. The higher level in the sweet wines is necessary to prevent the further fermentation of the higher levels of residual sugar. |
| Nearly all commercial wines are made with added sulphites. The question is not whether to add sulphites, but how much. The effectiveness of sulphites depends on several factors. One is the acidity of the wine. A wine with higher acidity will need less sulphite. Another factor is the age of the wine. The protective sulphur dioxide declines during the life of the wine, eventually leading to spoilage. Sulphur, when added in relatively high levels, may be noticeable in carelessly made wines, particularly white wines. The sulphur aroma of a burning match is a sign of a faulty wine. A sensitive palate can detect amounts greater than 50 parts per million, and too much can destroy the bouquet of a wine, eliminate delicate flavours and add a chemical taste as well. However, this smell could disappear with time as the wine matures or aerates. The total amount of SO2 in a finished, bottled wine should be the least amount required. |
| Because of potential health problems that have arisen – largely from misuse of the product in other food processing applications – the use of sulphur dioxide in wine has recently come under review. Furthermore, its use has been declining as consumers have become less tolerant of the freshly-struck match smell associated with sulphur. As a result of increasing pressure from government and concerned groups from the public sector, bottled wine must prominently display on the label the presence of sulphites. The warning label is attached to wine these days only because some very few people, mostly asthmatics, experience a bad reaction to sulphites. |
| Some wine drinkers are unknowingly sensitive to sulphites and can experience an allergic reaction. It is estimated that one in 100 people is sulphite-sensitive to some degree, but for the 10% of the population who are asthmatic, up to 5% are at risk of having an adverse reaction to the substance. The most common symptoms of a sulphite sensitivity reaction are mild and involve a skin rash accompanied by redness, hives, itching, flushing, tingling and swelling. Respiratory symptoms include difficulty in breathing, wheezing, and strider. Gastrointestinal reactions involve nausea and stomach cramps. Therefore, the EU has required that wines sold after 2006 include the statement "contains sulphites" on the label. You should not assume, however, that a wine without the statement is also made without sulphites. Interestingly, the human body produces about 1 gram of sulphites per day (vs.. the 10 milligrams of sulphites in the average glass of wine.) |
| Some people complain of getting headaches, stuffy nose, and rosy cheeks from mainly red wine. This is usually referred to as the “red wine headache syndrome.” This is not related to the sulphite content of the wine, but is probably due to other substances contained within the wine such as histamines. Sulphite exposure is not known to cause headache, unless you are an asthmatic with a particular sensitivity to sulphites. Actually, red wines may have less sulphite because they are less susceptible to oxidisation. Possibly, some of these people had a bad experience from drinking lousy wine. The best advice we can offer in these cases is to experiment with small quantities of various wines until you find some that don’t bother you and, as always, when in doubt, see your doctor for further information. |
| It is impossible to make a sulphite-free wine, because wine yeast produces SO2 during the fermentation process, so no other additions are necessary for three to five months. Wines with no added sulphite contain from 6 to 40 ppm of sulphite from the fermentation process alone. At the time of bottling, sulphur dioxide levels are adjusted to 20-30 parts per million. Wines actually need one of the lowest levels of sulphites to ensure stability. Because of wine's alcohol content, naturally high acidity, and low pH, only low levels of SO2 need to be added to achieve stability. |
| At the end of the day, using sulphites in winemaking is usually not a health issue. Sensible use of sulphites can significantly increase the quality and lifecycle of your wine. International regulatory boards usually set legal levels at around 350 ppm total sulphur dioxide and most commercial wines are bottled with totals between 50-100 ppm. At Monolithos Winery, we use a small amount of sulphites which converts to sulphur dioxide in the wine. According to laboratory tests, our wines’ sulphites are between 15%-30% of the prescribed limits. Consequently, we encourage you to drink most of our wines young and within a few days from opening the bottle. A little bit of SO2, used wisely, goes a long way and won’t hurt 9,999 out of 10,000 of us! |
Wine News and Information |
| France is attempting to inject some sparkle into its wine industry by changing the way it labels wine. From now on, wine can be labelled according to the type of grape used, rather than where the grape was grown. It is a move akin to a revolution for the French wine industry, which has labelled and sold wines according to their regional origin for centuries. The decision is an attempt by the industry to boost its faltering position on the global wine market. Table wines currently labelled "vins de table" or "vins de pays" will now be encouraged to market themselves by grape variety or brand to make it easier for customers to choose wines. Better quality wines will continue to use the Appellation d'Origine Controlee (AOC) labelling system – a guarantee that the wine has come from a specific geographical location. French wine has increasingly lost ground to "New World" wines grown in Australia, South Africa and the US, and it is hoped that using a similar labelling system will help drinkers pick a bottle of French wine with more ease. |
| Researchers have found that men who drink an average of four to seven glasses of red wine per week are only 52% as likely to be diagnosed with prostate cancer as those who do not drink red wine, reports the June 2007 issue of Harvard Men's Health Watch. In addition, red wine appears particularly protective against advanced or aggressive cancers. |
| Researchers in Seattle collected information about many factors that might influence the risk of prostate cancer in men between the ages of 40 and 64, including alcohol consumption. At first, the results for alcohol consumption seemed similar to the findings of many earlier studies. There was no relationship between overall consumption and risk. But the scientists went one step further by evaluating each type of alcoholic beverage independently. Here the news was surprising – wine drinking was linked to a reduced risk of prostate cancer. And when white wine was compared with red, red had the most benefit. Even low amounts seemed to help, and for every additional glass of red wine per week, the relative risk declined by 6%. Furthermore, the Harvard Men's Health Watch notes that men who enjoy alcohol and can drink in moderation and responsibly may benefit from a lower risk of heart attack, stroke, diabetes, and cardiac death. |
| A shadowy group in France has issued the French government with an unusual ultimatum: “Raise the price of wine or blood will flow”. The group's name is the Crav, which stands for nothing more threatening than the Union for Viticultural Action in the Languedoc region in the south. The Crav's deadline to the government soon runs out and marks exactly 100 years since wine-makers in the region led their last revolt. That ended with the French army shooting dead six demonstrators. No wine-maker will publicly admit to being part of Crav, but many sympathise with their demands, if not with their methods. |
| Trimming the vines in the 17 hectares of vineyard which used to support his family, wine-grower Francois Thiebaud is in despair because of plummeting wine prices. "We've lost between 40% and 50% of our income because of falling prices and the big cut taken by the middle-men who don't pay enough for the wine. I can only afford to carry on working in the vineyards because my wife has another job. And some wine-makers have to claim social security benefits, because they earn so little that they can't feed their families.” |
| Such frustration has now boiled over into the threats of violence by the Crav, made in a video message sent to France's new President, Nicolas Sarkozy. The group has proved that it is prepared to use violence to achieve its aims. France 3 television journalist Emilien Jubineau believes the group is in deadly earnest. "It's not that they're necessarily dangerous people, but these wine makers are extremely angry – they're desperate," he believes. |
| The solution Brussels has put forward is for producers to grub up 200,000 hectares of wine – much of it in the Languedoc – because the region is producing much more wine than it can sell in a fiercely competitive global market. However, even wine-makers not involved with the group say they share many of its frustrations, even if they do not agree with the threat of violence. Jean-Marc Ribet of Chateau de la Vernede, which produces high-quality wine mainly for the export market, says supermarkets and restaurants are making huge profits at wine-producers' expense, often buying wine at one euro (£0.67; $1.33) a litre and selling it on for 15 euros a litre. |
Monolithos Monthly News |
| July is the period where fruit growth slows down and coloration commences. This is the beginning of the ripening phase. By the end of the month, the fruit loses its green colour and slowly begins to soften. Sugar, pH, and acid levels are monitored closely. Grapes at this stage are very tart from the high acid level. The acid will convert to sugar from contact with sunlight. “Veraison” is the stage at which the grapes begin to change colour. At this point, we can begin to speculate on any number of things, including the cluster weights, average yield per acre, and potential harvest date. In essence, it is the beginning of the end. |
| Our efforts are geared to finding an equilibrium between what Mother Nature gives us and those measures we can affect to be sure we harvest a uniformly mature fruit at the end of the growing season. These efforts include coordinating the strategic removal of leaves to expose the grapes to sun and beneficial airflow, pursuing a meticulous regimen of cultivation, and carrying out regular checks and spraying the vines against insects, pests and disease. |
| At the Winery, everything is cleaned and inspected for the coming harvest. All eight Monolithos premium wines are available for tasting or purchasing, so if at any time you are passing near the village of Pachna and wish to visit the winery, Martin Wood will be pleased to meet and assist you at his “Fig Tree Villa” in Pachna, so do not hesitate to phone him at 25-816212 or 99-165995. |
| Regards from all of us here at Monolithos have a nice summer holiday and always remember the words of Samuel Butler (17th century): |
“All love at first, like generous wine – ferments and frets until ‘tis fine”. |
| Regards from all of us here at Monolithos |
