Wine Dimensions February 2006 |
Dear Friends of Monolithos, |
| The phrase "quality wine" is often used to indicate superiority and excellence. However, quality is something perceived, rather than defined. It is more easily recognised by the consumer than expressed. It is the duty of the wine industry and the responsible authorities to create sufficiently informed clientele, capable of appreciating better quality wines. In the final analysis, it is the wine drinker who judges the wine he or she drinks and, therefore, determines whether it is acceptable and desirable or not. It is often said that: |
"Everyone drinks the wine he or she deserves." |
| The first step in understanding quality is to learn how to identify wine defects, since the latter are more readily perceptible. Consumers cannot always appreciate a wine"s qualities, but they are very capable of recognising its faults. In fact, often people are happy with a wine of relatively low quality, provided it has no apparent defects. |
| Wine faults are attributable to several factors, such as bad practices in winemaking, exposure to heat and light, poor storage conditions, fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Careful and professional practices in the winery can prevent most faults. The most common wine faults encountered by the consumer are: oxidation, over-oaking, cork taint, excessive acetic acid and sulphur dioxide. |
Oxidation |
| Oxidized wine is the result of prolonged exposure of the wine to oxygen. The winemaker should take all necessary steps to protect the wine from oxidation at every stage, from grape harvesting to wine bottling. The oxidized character takes several forms, according to the intensity and quality of the wine. |
| White wines are particularly susceptible to oxidation. The presence of oxidation in white wine is visible from the change in colour from a clear lemon green to a yellow and dark amber or dull brown straw. |
| In reds, the change in colour alters from purple red to a paler colour with an orange or brown rim. However, the usual fruity flavours are lost and the wine tastes dull and lifeless, smelling of caramel or even "meaty". |
Over-oaking |
| Experience has shown that oak improves both the taste and texture of wine. But oak not only affects the smell and taste - it leaves its mark on the texture. The rich vanilla, buttery flavour components of toasted oak are recognized as desirable by many consumers. Over-oaking is a wine fault that is dependent upon the perception of the consumer. Wines that have been over-oaked can smell like sawdust or freshly sawn timber. If an excessive amount of oak has been used in the wine, there may be a strong vanilla or smoky characteristic presently. Obtaining the right balance of oak and fruit is a major challenge for winemakers. |
Cork Taint |
| A wine spoiled by a contaminated cork stopper is known as "corked" wine or "corky". This is the most common cause of wine spoilage. Cork taint imparts a distinct musty or mouldy characteristic that overpowers the natural wine aromas. The principal cause of corked wine is the chemical reaction between the chlorine solution used in sterilizing corks and phenols that exist in the wine. This reaction produces a substance known as trichloroanisole (TCA). Most cork taint is caused by the leaching of TCA from the cork into the wine after bottling. The exact sources of TCA are not yet fully known. The latter produces a chemical smell of mould. According to statistical information, around 1% of bottled wine may become corked. |
Volatile Acidity and Acetic Acid |
| These faults are the result of careless wine handling, uncontrolled bacteria, shortage of free sulphur dioxide and an ample supply of dissolved oxygen. The bacteria convert alcohol to acetic acid (vinegar) which then reacts with further alcohol to produce the ester known as ethyl acetate. High acetic acid levels can cause sharpness on the palate which is highly undesirable. Volatile acidity refers to both the smell of acetic acid and the associated odour, that of ethyl acetate. The latter smells of nail polish and it is sometimes present in young wines. |
Sulphur Dioxide |
| Sulphur dioxide protects wine from oxygen. The preservative properties of the compound are not matched by any other material. However, when used in excess, it can completely dominate the nose of a wine. SO2 is detected by a smell reminiscent to struck matches or bad eggs. A small percentage of the population can have allergic reactions to sulphur dioxide, particularly asthmatics. The permissible levels of sulphur dioxide levels are controlled around the world and within the EU. |
Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S) |
| This produces unpleasant smells of bad eggs or burning rubber. This is something encountered during fermentation or just after fermentation is complete. Even traces of hydrogen sulphide can spoil a wine"s aroma. |
| The accumulation of H2S is dependent on both the strain of yeast used and certain environmental conditions, such as temperature and availability of nitrogen. |
Sediments and Crystals |
| Neither of these are true faults, but both have the potential to spoil the experience unless they are understood. Sedimentation within the bottle is a natural occurrence in many wines, generally those designed to withstand some ageing, and it simply reflects the solid matter settling out of the wine. If poured into the glass it can be pretty unpleasant, and if this were to happen in a restaurant, it would certainly be a cause for complaint. The wine should have been decanted. |
| The most common crystals found in wine are tart rate crystals or cream of tartar, originating in the grape. Wines that have been cold stabilised by the winemaker have been chilled in order to bring these crystals out of solution so that they may be removed. If this is not done, they may form later in the bottle, especially if kept in a cold cellar. |
Wine News and Information |
| New research conducted at the University of California has revealed that cheese and wine do not make the perfect pair. Dr Hildegard Heymann, who led the research, found that after eating cheese, wine tasters could not tell the difference between expensive wine and cheap plonk. Using eight different cheeses of varying strength from Stilton to Emmental, a team of eight tasters was asked to evaluate the flavour and aroma of Syrah, or Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, both with fresh palates and after cheese. In almost all cases, the cheese masked the flavours of the wine, blocking a range of flavours including berry, oak, sourness and astringency. Tasters struggled to tell wines apart. The researchers also found that the stronger the cheese, the more it dulled the palate. Fiona Beckett, a leading food and wine writer, said that "Anyone who actually enjoys their wine will know that cheese will ruin their favourite wine. Consequently, wine-lovers should pick one or two cheeses to have with their wine and not plump for a wide selection. The trap that people fall into is to serve a lavish cheeseboard with mature cheeses and wine. It's an absolute killer - any wine would fall at that hurdle." |
| Researchers who peeked at the purchases of Danish grocery shoppers reported in the New Scientist that if there"s a wine bottle in your grocery cart, you"re probably buying healthier foods than your fellow shoppers who are buying beer. |
| Professor Gronbaek and colleagues at the Centre for Alcohol Research, which is part of Denmark"s National Institute of Public Health, got data from two large Danish chains of grocery stores on about 3.5 million purchases made over six months. Their findings include the following interesting comments: |
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People who bought wine bought more olives, fruit, vegetables, poultry, cooking oil, and low-fat cheese, milk, and meat.
Beer buyers bought more prepared dishes, sugar, cold cuts, chips, pork, butter or margarine, sausages, lamb, and soft drinks.
"Wine buyers made more purchases of healthy food items than people who buy beer," states the study in BMJ Online First.
Wine drinkers: Higher income, higher education level, healthier, leaner, and more likely to be young or middle-aged women who drink moderately.
Beer drinkers: Less educated and more likely to be healthy young men who drink more alcohol.
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Monolithos Monthly News |
| Most ground clearing tasks in the vineyard continued during January thanks to the mild weather. However pruning was delayed in order to avoid any possible damage from frosts. |
| In the winery blending, racking and clarification of all white wines has been completed. The next important task is tart rate stabilisation which is scheduled for the first week in February. |
| On the commercial field, all products of Monolithos Winery will become available at the new wine shop named "Knockout Drops & Tobacco", opening this month near the old Limassol port. The philosophy of Andreas and Natalia behind this venture is to exploit the strategic position of the shop, being located at 41 Spyrou Araouzou Street, a stone"s throw from Limassol"s sea front and within walking distance of the old port and mediaeval castle, and to provide natives and tourists alike with a wide selection of Cypriot wines. |
| We thank you for your continued support. If at any time you are passing near the village and wish to visit the winery or purchase any of our products, Martin Wood will be pleased to meet and assist you at his "Fig Tree Villa" in Pachna, so do not hesitate to phone him at 25-816212 or 99-165995. |
| Take care, and always remember that: |
Good wine might ruin the purse; bad wine ruins the stomach. |
| Regards from all of us here at Monolithos. |