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Wine Dimensions April 2005

Dear Friends of Monolithos,

This month"s bulletin continues with our briefing on grape varieties, since the understanding of the inherent characteristics of the grape is fundamental in the appreciation of the qualities of the wine made from it.

Until recently, the emphasis in Europe was placed on the geographic appellation since over the years, considerable knowledge was gained in matching vine cultivation to soil, climate, winemaking and grape types. In the new world (Australia, South Africa, U.S.A., New Zealand, Chile and Argentina), most wines are labelled by their grape variety names, mainly due to lack of adequate experience regarding which grapes grow best in each geographic location.

Now each grape has its own genetic code. All grapes exhibit varying levels of acid, fruit flavour, tannins, and so much more. That said, the final wine is a product of not only the grape, but the climate, soil, and production method used to make the wine. If, for example, Merlot is grown in a warm climate and then aged in small oak barrels, it will taste quite different from Merlot grown in a cool climate and then aged in stainless steel. You might taste these two examples and love one, yet strongly dislike the other.

Currently, the main red indigenous and international grape varieties cultivated in Cyprus are the following: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Grenache, Carignan, Cabernet Franc, Mavro, Ofthalmo, Maratheftiko, Mataro and Lefkada.

Below, we have gathered information on the most typical characteristics for you to look out for when tasting red wines made from these grapes. Structure and texture influence the way the wine feels in your mouth. As with aromas and flavours, these are affected by the type of grape as well as the location of origin, ageing and wine-making. However, tannin and acidity levels are mostly determined by the grape variety itself.

Grape Variety - Cabernet Sauvignon

Aromas and Flavours

- Blackcurrant, black cherry, green pepper, mint, eucalyptus, cedar and cigar-box (from oak)

Structure & Texture

- Firm tannins. This grape requires a hot summer to ripen, and it retains its acidity, even when the alcohol reaches 14%. It is often blended with Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It demands ageing in small oak barrels, and the best wines require several years of bottle age to reach their peak.

Grape Variety - Merlot

Aromas and Flavours

- Light, soft plumy with black cherry, chocolate, toffee, fruit-cake flavours.

Structure & Texture

- Low acid, low tannin, soft and velvety. Merlot takes second place to Cabernet Sauvignon in most premium red wine blends. Merlot is fragrant and usually softer than Cabernet Sauvignon. It also shows best with oak maturation.

Grape Variety - Syrah/Shiraz

Aromas and Flavours

- Peppery, black cherry, blackcurrants, exotic scented flowers, complex and rich wine, often characterised by wood-smoky and chocolaty aromas.

Structure & Texture

- Firm tannins, spicy and leathery. It matures faster than Cabernet Sauvignon and is sometimes blended with it to speed accessibility.

Grape Variety - Pinot Noir

Aromas and Flavours

- Strawberries, raspberries, cherries, savoury and perfumed flavoured.

All characteristics are very good, and in a future bulletin, we shall take the opportunity to elaborate on the importance of these results.

The next significant step before putting this product on the market is the organoleptic evaluation of the wine.

Structure & Texture

- Smooth, light and perfumed, silky tannins, fresh acidity, good structure but not much complexity.

Wine News and Information

The UK 2005 budget has again targeted the wine trade with a 4p tax hike on a bottle of wine. The increase came into effect at the end of March. Sparkling wines and spirits have been left untouched. This is the third successive year to see duty on wine raised by 4p.

Reacting to consumer demand for less dominant oak flavours in wines, producers all over Italy are starting to use their small French barrels ("barriques") two or three times. Many are abandoning them altogether and turning back to traditional large barrels.

French winemakers are fearful of another heat-wave after an unusually rainless autumn and winter and un-seasonally dry spring weather. The south and west of France have been experiencing the driest spring conditions for decades, and several regions are already suffering from the "worst drought in 50 years".

The debate and controversial issue of terroir has come up again in the news. According to a report presented to the Royal Economic Society in Nottingham, terroir plays no part in the production of great wines. The study threatens the long-held belief that the best French wines are unbeatable because of their terroir - an inimitable combination of soil, climate and topography. Olivier Gergaud from the University of Reims and Victor Ginsburgh of the University Libre de Bruxelles argue that winemaking technologies, not terroir, determine the quality of the wine.

Californians are turning against Mondovino, a cinematic portrait of the struggle between heroic French wine-growers and crass American giants. Made by an American director, Mondovino satisfies every European prejudice. It tells a story of New World colonialism, in which US wine companies invade France and Italy in search of profit and plunder.

It is easy to see why Americans result the film. A nation once wedded to spirits, beer and cocktails, it has changed its habits dramatically in the past quarter of a century. Within a few years, the US will have overtaken France as the world"s biggest market for wine consumption. Riding the crest of that wave is Robert Parker, a self-described "farm boy from Maryland" who founded a consumer wine guide in 1978. Parker acted as translator and guide. His colossal influence reverberates beyond the U.S. to Japan, China, Russia and even Latin America.

The reach of Parker"s influence derives from globalisation and the commanding power of the US market. The nature of his influence derives from his own palate, which favours fruity, highly coloured and heavily oaked wines.

Sales of French wine are falling, while the weak dollar and hostility over Iraq have made the American market a tough proposition. The mistake is to view wine as an instrument of cultural dominance that must triumph or be crushed. Global competition has not brought a collapse in standards or convergence of styles, where Parisian designers still flourish and even mass-market manufacturers reflect national tastes. Wine has outlived enough empires for it to withstand a few more.

Monolithos Monthly News

Spring is associated with ploughing. It is when the vine begins to emerge from dormancy. Cultivation is an effective method of killing weeds. The first ploughing is relatively deep to facilitate soil aeration and to uncover the bases of the vines.

During this period, the second racking of the red wines was completed and all tanks were topped up. In the second week of March, the bottling of 2004 Santa Monica Rose was completed. This wine will be available at the end of April, and new labels will be printed soon, based on the EU wine regulations.

We are pleased to inform you that the most recent addition to the list of restaurants that serve our wines is the much respected Greek tavern and restaurant "Mikoniatiko", located 500 metres from the Metro Supermarket in Kato Lakatamia.

Where to Find Monolithos Wines

Pissouri Village stands on a hilltop approximately 250 metres above sea level. The village centre has been preserved with governmental assistance, and a village square, which is surrounded by small, family-run restaurants and cafes, is extremely popular among both locals and foreign visitors. However, if you wish to relax away from the busy towns and tourist centres, we highly recommend you the Hill View Apartments and Restaurant. This is a small, family-run resort which occupies a prime location at the highest point of Pissouri, offering an all-round view of the southern coast, the vine-filled valley and the Troodos mountains. The restaurant offers a variety of local and international dishes and an extensive wine list - including Monolithos wines. If you wish to taste their popular Sunday lunch buffet, it is wise to reserve your table by phone as early as possible. For reservations, call George on 25-221972 and for additional information, see also website ww.hillview.ws.

If at any time you are passing near the village and wish to visit the winery or purchase any of our products, Martin Wood will be pleased to meet and assist you at his "Fig Tree Villa" in Pachna, so do not hesitate to phone him at 25-816212 or 99-165995.

We thank you for your continued support. Take care, and always remember that wine is the most delightful of drinks.

Regards from all of us here at Monolithos